After some sleepy days in Palmer, I needed to get back into the middle of things. We are in Alaska, dammit, let’s go see! Our host so, so graciously drove us up the 6-8 miles (?) from our cabin and introduced us to some of the most beautiful sights yet. The snow clung to every branch and dressed the rocks along the Little Susitna River. We followed the river and road (paved since 2002) up into the mountains. We were surrounded by them. Liz pointed out the Independent Gold Mine, and we continued above tree level to our new stay Hatcher Pass Lodge.
No cars in the drive. Closed sign in the window. Nature, yes, but this was also supposed to be a splurge with food, restaurant, and spa (not that Max nor I expected to use the spa). I worried suddenly that we had eaten nearly all of our food (at my direction, and constant hunger), and would be stuck IN the mountains without. I said so out loud, and made everyone uncomfortable. Liz was sure that the owner was in and that food wouldn’t be a problem and walked us to the from door. Smelled like a peppermint version of o.cocos t-shirt smell (for my Coco circa 2010 fans). We walked through the side door, and into a kitchen and sun drenched restaurant, that might have remained unchanged since 1968; still lovely, but aged, and untouched— just laying the land for you. We called hello, and I asked Liz if we should go back to her place, and we all hesitantly retreated. Walking from the door to the car, a small man who could EASily have been Celine’s grandfather, yelled “ya gotta really make some noise in this place!”
This is Hap. Much discussion would follow debating what Hap might be short for, and maybe we will ask today. Hap is now our friend. Hap was not our friend when he first answered the door for us, and he smelled funny, and we were in the middle of the mountains, so the part of me that loves boxes squealed, “go!” But we didn’t, and now Hap is our friend—even if he has an 82 year old he be sais quoi.
We were told to check out the empty cabins, and picked our cabin #5. It was stocked with the sort of stained pillows Grandey had in Steven’s closet since 1972, the game of Life, Uno, some waterlogged cards, and a vacuum. In the bathroom, we saw an igloo cooler with some cups for water, a basin, and a queer portapotty little guy that stood about 10-12” off the floor. The main room had a queen bed, couch, and table and folding chairs, oh, and yea, there was a view. Quite possibly the greatest view ever, ever, ever.
After some picture-taking and snow stomping, we returned to the A-framed main Lodge to see if there was a meal schedule, and found Hap. He pulled up a chair. We were caught up on the story of Hap from 1950 to present, which included a beginning in Dedham and a music store on Newbury Street! He was a tree climber, a music repair man and maybe restorer, and someone who wanted to explore and ski. Alaska was pretty new, and he set his home here, created this Lodge for snow sports within the mountains, and here he be. As he spoke Max watched kayaks sled down th
e mountain outside the window. Hap offered to have us hang out for an hour before the kitchen crew came in (thank GOD, a crew), and we planned to return for dinner.
Dinner was real food, and dessert was pie—banana cream and Razzleberry. Phenomenal. We know that we aren’t the only ones in this place but, setting the scene, it sure looks that way. We are seated in the dining room, looking out on creation, and hmm, let me map it out better. Max and I are in the front window, just out of the sun. There are two wood burning stoves behind max (not burning), and there are a few active coal burning stoves in the center of the room. It’s toasty, and we are in chunky Grandpa Gus kitchen chairs, table has a 1960’s plastic cover under resin or plastic encasement. Green and purple grapes are the design. Skis and poles are hanging as decor, along with many, maybe solely, assorted paintings OF the Lodge. The kitchen sits behind a small bar, and above it are stairs leading to the top office and Hap home of the A-Frame.
We will watch the mountains and sky change for two days here, and will move on, closer to Anchorage tomorrow. Hap is a Stephen Colbert fan, an was a former Fan of the Worm (for Dave enthusiasts still out there). Instant respect is paid when I meet a sincere and long time Dave Letrerman fan. DeNiro is on Colbert tonight, so we are hoping for a full report from an excited Hap in the morning.
Our cabin
I feel like I’ve eaten off this before…
Ironwood represent
This is the front door, behind another door that says “closed.”
That’s Hap. Well me; the back of my head, yes, but Hap…in the painting.